Many other dishes are pleasantly uncluttered, with bright, light sauces. There are way too many offbeat flavors tripping things up.īut then, I’m old school with my sushi and crave the pure stuff, like decadent chutoro nigiri ($16), the fatty tuna rich and needing nothing more than a dot of wasabi. A Trumpzilla roll is flat-out frightening, a mess of tuna, tempura avocado, spicy crab, albacore, chile threads and pepper sauce ($15). Other Americanized rolls don’t appeal, such as the Crazy Monkey of coconut shrimp, grilled pineapple, spicy crab, avocado and spicy aioli ($15), or the Mexican roll of spicy crab, cucumber, ebi and avocado splashed with spicy jalapeño ponzu ($13). Duck Noodle Soup with duck leg, bok toy, egg noodle, pork and shiitake broth from the Boathouse Asian Eatery in the Graton Casino. The fish can be pricey, for two pieces each of nigiri such as maguro ($7), sake ($6) and hamachi ($7), but they’re generous cuts, and we can also delve into more exotic bites like raw, well-marbled Wagyu ($9) and briny oyster ($7).

That means I can hog it all myself, with my favorite Rainbow roll, a California roll that’s draped with sashimi tuna, salmon, yellowtail, shrimp and snapper sprinkled in crunchy tobiko ($15). My dining companion doesn’t care for sushi, which delights me.

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